A. Lange & Söhne – personal impressions of the novelties from SIHH 2014

Jul 01, 2014,15:09 PM
 

I would like to provide you with my – subjective – in-depth impressions of A. Lange & Söhne SIHH 2014 novelties – particularly the Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar Terraluna, the 1815 Tourbillon, the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase, the “mid-size” 1815 and the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar.

It is already a few month back that SIHH took place, but I just had to find the extra time to prepare my own impressions and also was hoping to see some of the novelties once more. The latter didn´t work unfortunately, but without further babbling here we go – finally smile


This year I attended the presentation for the Lange Owners Group (again, after a break) and as always it was quite special in a good way. Before the presentation when friends of the brand drop in and have a Radeberger (German beer from Saxony) and a pretzel together with members of the ALS team you get the first idea about the familiar atmosphere, which is just so special in the industry. The entertainer’s ehhh presenters have been (once more) Anthony de Haas and Tino Bobe and they always do it in their very own way – lots of knowledge, good spirit and not to forget a big portion of humor. Bravo, it was a pleasure once more!


After the presentation there is always some (limited) time to see and handle the novelties. Even when the light is not perfect (especially for taking high quality pictures), all the novelties are available (more or less), everyone tries to get his share of time to handle them. Hopefully you can imagine the atmosphere when “hard core” connoisseurs start to get and share their (first) impressions. Put the watches on your wrist, detect the details with a magnifier, compare it to other/former watches and take first pictures with your phone or camera … I love that very special moment!






My pictures have been taken at that time and therefore they are different. It´s more about the live atmosphere and less about the perfect picture of any detail – even when I don´t show the people because of privacy.

 

All the novelties shown are part of already well-known and established collections and show evolutions or at least a different metal or size. To me they represent the new and slightly different world of A. Lange & Söhne.

Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar Terraluna




The regulator with orbital moon-phase display and 14-day movement comes in a 45.5-millimetre pink- or white-gold case.

 

The latest member of the Richard Lange family …


(Other members of the RL family)

 

… shows a well-known design on the front, but this time with a big date and a quite impressive case. For some it was THE star of the show and ALS presented it as their center piece on the booth.

 

Dial side – three circles for time and four windows for eternity (big date, day, month and leap year indication). To keep the power for the switching process as low as possible, the required energy is gradually built up via a cam and then released abruptly at midnight.

Movement side - the patent-pending orbital moon-phase display shows the location of the moon relative to the earth and the sun – for the first time ever in a wristwatch. The display consists of three discs. On the star-studded celestial disc, the moon – visible through a round aperture – orbits around the earth anti-clockwise once a month. The mechanism reproduces the synodic month of 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes, and 3 seconds so precisely that it takes 1058 years before the display needs to be corrected by one day. Beneath it, the lunar disc rotates, featuring two round new moons. The progression of the moon phases can be observed through the aperture in the celestial disc. In the constellation view, the position of the sun is occupied by the balance. On new-moon days, the dark moon stands between the earth and the sun. It appears as a bright sphere on the opposite side of the earth on full-moon days. Thus, the position and phase of the moon are indicated simultaneously. In the center of the display, the earth rotates about its own axis once a day. It is daytime on the half that faces the sun, or the balance, and night-time on the other. The peripheral 24-hour scale provides a time-of-day reference for the northern hemisphere.





The ambitious precision goals of Lange’s product developers come to the fore not only in the configuration of the moon-phase display mechanism, which consists of three solid white-gold discs, but also in its design. To achieve a vivid and aesthetically sophisticated image of the orbiting moon-phase display, they chose a special coating process. On the celestial disc, for example, interference effects absorb all of the non-blue color spectra of the incident light. The result is a deep-blue surface studded with more than a thousand high-contrast, sharply contoured stars.






Calibre L096.1

 

With two rugged mainsprings, the twin barrel delivers a power reserve of 14 days. When a spring barrel stores so much energy, special technical precautions must be taken to keep the rate of the watch stable during the entire power-reserve period. The torque of the fully wound spring would be too high to be delivered directly to the going train. And as its torque declines when it approaches the unwound state, the accuracy of the watch would deteriorate. An elaborate constant-force escapement compensates for both phenomena. In ten-second intervals, it releases an identical portion of the available energy to the balance, thus assuring that the torque remains constant. The result is an unvarying amplitude and high rate accuracy from the first day to the last. At the 6-o’clock position, a power-reserve indicator in the form of a circumferential ring tells the owner when the time has come to replenish the movement with fresh energy via the winding crown.









Since 2003, Lange has been part of the small community of watch manufactories that master the technology needed to produce balance springs. Only thus can the utmost precision be assured. For this reason, in addition to the balance spring, the remontoir spring of the constant-force escapement is also made in-house for the new L096.1 calibre. The indexless oscillator beats with a frequency of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour.


 

On the wrist it is impressive ...









… and one gentleman tried it even on the back side.





Pro:

·   Outstanding technical features

·   Uniqueness

·   “Über”-Cool indication on the back

·   Top-level all-over finishing

·   Readability is quite good even when it looks busy on the first view


Con:

·   The size (case is 45,5mm; 16,5mm) is just too big, even for something complicated like this

·   The very technical approach and style of the movement reminds to movements from another brand

·   The stars shown on the back are very well executed, but just created by a designer in regards of beauty – only. Would have preferred something more dedicated.

 


Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase




The Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase gives the moon-phase display, which, by the way, is designed to remain accurate for 122.6 years, distinctive prominence on the dial. A patented coating process for the lunar disc endows this astronomical complication with a remarkably lifelike appearance. As it was already presented late in 2013 and presented by fellow moderators, I won´t go in more detail here.






On the wrist it shows presence with a diameter of 41mm and quite an eye-catching moon.





Have only tried the platinum version in Geneva and somehow I didn´t like it that much for several reasons. But when I tried the yellow gold version (just recently) I was really surprised how good it was looking on my wrist. The warm color of the yellow gold added some additional charm to this evolution of the L1 Moonphase. Less modern I would say and more “vintage flair” instead.





Pro:

·   Moon phase accurate for 122.6 years

·   Eye-catching moon, very well executed

·   The movement, as it is superb like any Lange 1 movement

·   Wearability is still fine, even when it is not for smallish wrists

Con:

·   The eye-catching moon is almost too much and borderline to my taste for a watch from ALS and once more another brand came to my mind first. To “fashionable” … at least in platinum, which in general is one of my favorite metal most of the time



1815 Tourbillon






The 1815 TOURBILLON with stop-seconds mechanism and ZERO-RESET come in a 39.5mm case and is available in PT (LE 100) and RG.

For the very first time, an A. Lange & Söhne timepiece unites the stop-seconds mechanism for the tourbillon with the ZERO-RESET function. The interaction between the two patented mechanisms makes it possible to stop and set the new 1815 TOURBILLON with one-second accuracy.





The watch is designed for supreme precision. Unprecedented rate stability is assured by the one-minute tourbillon. The interaction between two patented mechanisms enables the watch to be set with great accuracy. When the crown is pulled, the balance inside the tourbillon cage stops instantaneously and the seconds hand jumps to the zero position. The watch can now conveniently be synchronized with a reference watch or a time signal. Those kinds of features are very nice, but I would have thought about the Richard Lange family if we talk about that kind of precision thing.









The tourbillon that is visible through the aperture in the dial is the only manifestation of the complexity of the watch. In comparison with earlier versions, its diameter was increased by nearly one millimeter to 13.2 millimeters.





On the back side it looks like this:









On the wrist the size is appropriate, if we talk about the diameter.













The height (11.1mm) is slightly too much, at least for such a classical watch and for my taste.





An obvious comparison is one of the first things that came to my mind and lucky me I was possible to do so, thanks to a fellow Purist.





Pro:

·   Outstanding technical features

·   Great view on the tourbillon

·   All-over execution

·   Diameter of the case and the tourbillon

Con:

·   The big “hole” asks for a lot of attention and lacks the level of extra class the Tourbillon PLM has

·   The height is not the one I would expect from that kind of piece

·   The price – especially compared to the Tourbillon PLM and its importance for collectors

·   Superb features for admirers of precision, but shown in the wrong family. Richard Lange family comes to my mind …

 

Two more pictures …









… and a first hint on the next watch.

 


Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar





No it´s not a real novelty (platinum version was already presented in 2012) because this time it is only a different metal, but maybe still my favorite novelty this year. I know this is too early for a conclusion, but I just love it for what it is – a highly complicated, understated and very elegant piece, full of ALS spirit. The RG case adds lots of warmth and fits just perfect to this simple & sophisticated dial with its calendar displays around the time indication.





The highly complicated movement is a feast for the eyes and shows some perfect details with pure Lange DNA. For example the upper part of the tourbillon cage is decorated with black polish, no doubt the most sophisticated and time-consuming type of artisanal finissage. The bearing of the tourbillon cage features a diamond endstone as a reminiscence of the historic 1A pocket watches of the venerable A. Lange & Söhne brand. Just saw it recently on the bench at the complication department in Glashütte and loved it even more after looking at the uncased movement with a good loupe. Unfortunately I couldn´t take any pictures and therefore I can´t share it with you.

 

Pro:

·   Almost puristic dial for what it shows and therefore it offers lots of understatement, which is not common for a piece of that kind

·   Readability of the indications

·   Tourbillon only visible at the back

·   All-over execution


Con:

·   The central rotor makes it more difficult to appreciate the tourbillon at the back




1815 (38.5 mm)


The latest one is an addition to the already available “simple manual winding” watches of the 1815 collection, in a new size. The first 1815 (discontinued in 2007) with a case of 36 mm showed the caliber L941.1. It was available in several versions/metals. In 2009 ALS introduced another version in 40mm with caliber L051.1, which is still in production and available in several metals.





(First version vs second version)




This time we have the classics with the same movement (caliber L051.1) and a case of 38.5 mm. There is one caliber available in two different case sizes (at the same time), something not common for ALS – to say the least.





I would call it a concession to the market, but still it is an adorable watch. Maybe for some it is even more perfect now, as they can find their perfect size easily.

Hands-on it looks and feels good and everything feels just right.














On the wrist it feels like at home on a wrist like mine.









Pro:

·   Strong ALS DNA shown, especially on the dial side

·   Readability and Wearability are just perfect

·   All-over execution is fine


Con:

·   The hardcore ALS fan of the early days has to get used to the new approach of making concessions to the market. Paradigm comes to my mind …

 

 


Conclusion:

 

The latest member of the Richard Lange family the Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar Terraluna is impressive for sure, but I still prefer the elegance and wear ability of the “simple & sophisticated” Richard Lange or the even more sophisticated Richard Lange PLM when talking about that family.

The Grand Lange 1 Moonphase shows some great details, but so far I still prefer the predecessors.

1815 Tourbillon – this one looks tempting on press pictures, but in reality I didn´t like it that much for several reasons – see my cons. To me it proves how important and perfectly executed the Tourbillon PLM was and still is, especially when we keep in mind it was already presented twenty years ago and in the very early days of the “modern” ALS.

Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is only a new metal version, but nonetheless a very charming and appealing one.

Not to forget the latest iteration of the 1815. It is a very nice and classical watch, especially for those who prefer simpler but nonetheless outstanding products. For sure it will find its admirers.

 

A strong & comprehensive collection in general makes it even more difficult to add something new and outstanding, every year. Looking back for two centuries now, for sure it was impressive what they have introduced so far. Not all the details shown with the novelties of 2014 have been to my personal taste or shall I say to my very high personal expectations when it comes to ALS. Still I am aware you need the attention from “the crowd” every year and therefore I think it was once more a successful year for ALS, because there was quite a lot of talk about some of the novelties during SIHH.

 

Oliver


This message has been edited by small-luxury-world on 2014-07-02 02:13:44


More posts: 18151815 TourbillonGrand Lange 1Grand Lange 1 Moon PhaseLange 1Lange 1 MoonphaseLange 1 TourbillonLange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual CalendarRichard LangeRichard Lange Perpetual Calendar

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Comments: view entire thread

 

Thank you for this! Excellent

 
 By: colton_d : July 1st, 2014-16:20
Oliver, Thank you for the wonderful pictures, and especially your comments on the novelties. I very much appreciate true and honest opinions on these things. The Lange 1 Tourbillon PC remains my favourite from those you showcased, but the Pt version holds... 

Colton, thanks for your kind reply!

 
 By: small-luxury-world : July 2nd, 2014-01:45
Even with outstanding watches around, at the end it is all about the people - good or bad. There is nothing like passion, without people. Cheers, Oliver

You took the words out of my mouth...

 
 By: KIH : July 1st, 2014-16:50
.. totally agree with you :-) Thanks for your impressions! Ken

Ken, why am I not surprised?!

 
 By: small-luxury-world : July 2nd, 2014-01:47
:-) Thanks for your reply and take good care of you my friend! Oliver

My pleasure, CR.

 
 By: small-luxury-world : July 2nd, 2014-01:48
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Your conclusion says it all. I regret seeing Lange systematically going for bigger and

 
 By: amanico : July 1st, 2014-21:58
Thicker cases. The Terra Luna has one nice thing, the case back, final point. The rest, IMO, is, well... My favourite? The 1815. 38, 5 mm is a perfect size for this Watch. And it is a Watch, as you perfectly wrote, which still has some Lange DNA. I am sti... 

Nicolas, thanks for your reply! Bigger and thicker cases ...

 
 By: small-luxury-world : July 2nd, 2014-01:52
especially when we talk about complicated pieces. Will that change some time soon? I don´t know, but I would appreciate it :-) Cheers, Oliver

Thanks a lot!

 
 By: small-luxury-world : July 2nd, 2014-01:52
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Thanks for the report on the Lange novelties

 
 By: ED209 : July 1st, 2014-22:18
Great photos, and thanks for sharing your thoughts on the Lange novelties. I like the 1815 Tourbillon, and agree with you that the thickness isn't what I would expect on this watch. Other than that detail, it's my favorite of the novelties. Regards, ED-20... 

My pleasure, Ed!

 
 By: small-luxury-world : July 2nd, 2014-01:54
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Am I wrong...

 
 By: stere : July 2nd, 2014-00:04
...or can I read between the lines that your love to ALS will grow up again a bit? Thanks for your outstanding report! stere

Stere, thanks for your kind reply!

 
 By: small-luxury-world : July 2nd, 2014-02:10
Coming to your question. If there is passion & love involved it´s like beeing a member of a family. Sometimes it is "pure love" and sometimes you are more critcal than others, because you only want the best. The products haven´t changed recently (good... 

Thanks Oliver!

 
 By: stere : July 4th, 2014-04:47
...for your statement. I have no connetion to people at Lange, so my point of view is only marked by their products. At my point of view the 2014 collection is...very special. From technical point of view the watches are incredible and on a superlative le... 

Thank you Oliver for this outstanding report!

 
 By: jrwong23 (aka watchthebin) : July 2nd, 2014-19:45
I agree with you - we all have very high expectations of ALS and their great products such as the Datograph, Lange 1, RL PLM, etc have made it somewhat difficult for them to continue to impress at that level. I too prefer the older Lange watches and also ... 

Thanks a lot for your detailed article, I enjoyed reading it...

 
 By: foversta : July 3rd, 2014-13:51
... even if I have different comments on some novelties. I will come back on the 1815 Tourbillon during the next weeks. Fx

great report! [nt]

 
 By: Horology75 : July 13th, 2014-10:57

Thanks, Ovi!

 
 By: small-luxury-world : July 24th, 2014-09:39
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