foversta[PuristSPro Moderator]
20814
SIHH 2012: Lange & Söhne, a solid collection
Jan 25, 2012,13:19 PM
I arrived at the SIHH on Tuesday so I first discovered the Lange novelties through the Press releases. I will be frank with you: I had a slight feeling of disappointment when I read them due to the impression of "deja-vue". But, as always, it is difficult to judge watches without seeing them in the metal. So I prefered to see and to handle them before drawing any conclusion especially when it comes from my fav manufacture!
It was a requirement with this new collection: it appears to be much more subtle than at first glance and more important, more ambitious.
Believe me, it is not that easy to touch two pilars of the collection: the Datograph and the Grand Lange 1. It is not easy to propose a hidden automatic Tourbillon far from the traditional way for Lange to offer a Tourbillon.After my week at the SIHH, I was much more convinced by the 2012 collection. What are the points which can be highlighted?
- Lange remains technically on top: it is a certitude for me. Let's take an example: the way the months ring system of the Lange 1 Tourbillon PC was designed is impressive. I will dedicated a specific post on it later.
- Lange still has a great care of details. They develop a new date mechanism for the Datograph only to propose a date window which is 4% larger than the previous one... to preserve the balance of the dial. I don't think we would meet a lot of other brands which would really care for these 4%.
- Quality is flawless: when we handle the prototypes, we know that they will work. No doubt about this. The finishings still meet our high expectations.
- The number of new watches is quite high for a brand which produces 4500/5000 watches per year. A symbol of creative energy.
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The in-house hairspring is used more and more often, a proof of increasing independance from companies outside Richemont.
So the picture is perfect?
No! Because as I'm talking about the brand which has a special place in my heart, I have a very demanding attitude and I think there is a romm for improvement!
- I would have taken the opportunity of the WG Saxonia to propose a
different dial colour. Through the time, I think that the dial offer is decreasing. I understand the reasons, a more rationalized approach was required with such limited production. But I wasn't expecting 4 different dial colours for the Saxonia. Only one like black or deep blue would have been surprising enough and would have created a strong contrast with the PG version.
- I would be very happy to see a
more daring aesthetical design: don't get we wrong. The watches are beautiful, balanced, flawless. But perfection is sometimes less exciting than a flaw which brings spice. Spice, that's the key word. I would like to see more spice, more fantasy on specific models. Not all of course.
- And things become more difficult for a collector like me. I can't afford anymore the new Lange watches I love. It is a bit frustrating but I also understand the strategy of the brand. I'm very happy with my collection but I would so pleased so see
something "less classy" around 20K euros (of course a 3 hands watch in this price range). So again, sorry to sing the same lyrics but an original dial for the WG Saxonia would have been perfect in that purpose. Or a simple watch with the Sax-O-Mat movement? It is only housed by the calendar watches now.
It was at the end a solid SIHH for Lange, not the best in terms of "excitement" but a very good one in terms of quality and improvement of the collection. It is the reason why I chose this thread title.
I propose to browse the novelties now... but before we shall start by a view on the booth! Of course, I will come back to the watches more precisely later this year.
Ready to enter the booth to browse the 8 parts report?
Booth:
alang.watchprosite.com
Datograph Up and Down:
alang.watchprosite.com
Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual:
alang.watchprosite.com
Grand Lange 1:
alang.watchprosite.com
Lange 1 Timezone WG:
alang.watchprosite.com
Saxonia Thin:
alang.watchprosite.com
Ladies' watches:
alang.watchprosite.com
Conclusion:
alang.watchprosite.com
Fr.Xavier
This message has been edited by foversta on 2012-01-25 14:03:28 This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2012-01-31 18:37:00