This or that or this?

Mar 16, 2014,08:49 AM
 

I am on the search for a simple two- or three-hand dress watch, with a diameter of 38-40mm and in pink gold. I have narrowed the field to five possible candidates; the VC Patrimony Traditionelle Small Seconds, VC Patrimony Contemporaine (hand-wound), Lange Saxonia Automatic, Lange 1815 (38.5 mm) or the Lange Saxonia Thin. Presently I'm leaning towards one of the 3 Langes, rather than the VCs. Something about the Lange design language and aesthetic speaks to me more viscerally than the VCs. Day-to-day, I don't normally wear a jacket and tie to work, and rarely something more formal than a shirt and trousers, so I'm looking for something that can dress up or down, and will suit a smart but casual workplace.  Other current "flexible" watches in my rotation include an AP RO Dualtime and JLC Grande Reverso Duo, both in stainless steel. What say the Lange aficionados? Photos of the 3 Langes posted below:





This message has been edited by academe on 2014-03-16 08:51:06 This message has been edited by academe on 2014-03-16 09:03:10


More posts: 1815SaxoniaSaxonia AutomaticSaxonia Thin

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Those blued hands...

 
 By: academe : March 16th, 2014-09:26
....almost had me sold. But there's special and lovely about the Saxonia Thin's minimalist simplicity. And the Saxonia Auto looks great on the wrist, too...

I would take a manual Lange

 
 By: dr.kol : March 16th, 2014-11:00
and the thin is simply fantastic. Best, Kari

Go to the 1815...

 
 By: foversta : March 16th, 2014-11:32
The 1815 is a watch which is superior to the Saxonia. First of all, I would choose a handwind movement. And the movement of the 1815 is superb, with a great pleasure to wind it. Ans in an aesthetic point of view, it has much more character than the Saxoni...  

Thanks for all the comments so far...

 
 By: academe : March 16th, 2014-12:16
I understand that Lange are known for their hand-wound movements, (hence the recommendation over the automatic) but what is it about the 1815 movement that makes it superior to the movement in the Thin? Or, are the aesthetics the primary driver of the rec... 

To make a long story short.

 
 By: foversta : March 16th, 2014-12:46
The movement of the 1815 is very nice to wind while the movement of the saxonia Thin (even if it is more appealing due to its visible parts) doesn't have the same architecture: it has a larger and thinner barrel which makes it less nicer to wind, at least... 

Thanks for your insights and comments...

 
 By: academe : March 16th, 2014-13:35
I've only handled the hand wound 37mm Saxonia and the 40mm 1815, and that was long enough ago that I can't remember the physical sensation of winding them. I have still to see the Thin and new Saxonia Automatic in person, as I have no AD nearby. The new 1... 

1815 for me

 
 By: colton_d : March 16th, 2014-13:02
I will not re-state the arguments already, as they are spot-on. I would personally choose the 1815 given your situation as the numerals would make the watch a bit more casual in my eyes versus the baton-indices of the Saxonia models. Although you have giv...  

That Richard Lange is stunning...

 
 By: academe : March 17th, 2014-14:50
...Thought I have for whatever reason been a little on the fence about Roman numerals, for whatever reason. I will need to try one!

blue hands for me too. [nt]

 
 By: gensiulia : March 16th, 2014-13:06

Out of your Lange selection ...

 
 By: small-luxury-world : March 16th, 2014-14:24
I would choose the 1815, because it shows more character and offers lots of Lange DNA. The first ones (36mm) offered an outstanding value for the money, but the latter ones are still good. You mentioned automatic and therefore I would also have a look at ...  

+1 for the old Langematik without date in YG or an 1815...

 
 By: CR : March 16th, 2014-23:09
I prefer them to the Saxonia.

Amongst your choices

 
 By: jrwong23 (aka watchthebin) : March 16th, 2014-18:11
You won't go wrong with any. All are top class dress watches in our times. I will choose the 1815 amongst them as I love the blued hands and find it more distinctively Lange than the Saxonias. I have a VC traditionnelle in pink gold. I took a long time to... 

There is however

 
 By: Ares501 - Mr Green : March 16th, 2014-23:36
the father of all Lange 3 hand watches and mother of many other :) Langematik Anniversary it would fit regarding metal colour nicely to present collection and after ti you never need to search no more Sincerely Damjan ...  

..."you never need to search no more"...yes dear....

 
 By: Sandgroper : March 17th, 2014-05:44
Danjam, after! But what about before?:) If you can find one before you are 98 years old..perhaps it is of no use to you anymore! Well, maybe using a microscope;) Cheers Francois from Down Under

I cast my vote and lot in with the 1815, but may I humbly suggest the Richard Lange too?

 
 By: Hororgasm : March 17th, 2014-00:29
whilst many say the 1815 is a "starter" Lange watch, i agree and disagree...there are days when you wanna wear a simple 3 hand, and this is it. Having said that, may I humbly suggest the Richard Lange too? amongst my collection, whenever I want to wear a ... 

Yes; thanks for the Richard Lange vote...

 
 By: academe : March 17th, 2014-14:55
...After seeing Colton's post above it has made me add this watch to the list, too. Sadly, as I have limited resources, I will have to content myself with a "starter" Lange, although in all honesty this quest began with my desire for a simple 2 or 3 hand ... 

on that topic of bigger brands and longevity....Parmigiani....

 
 By: Hororgasm : March 17th, 2014-22:03
Parmigiani is actually a proper manufacture, and in fact does a large amount of contract work for other brands, including some of the most illustrous names that we know!! so i would not fear about servicing etc of Parmigiani. since you are a owner of a AP... 

That is a good point re: Parmigiani...

 
 By: academe : March 18th, 2014-09:19
...I had forgotten that Vaucher does in fact produce parts and components for other houses. I did know they were a proper manufacture. I suppose I was thinking in terms of size; they're not as large an outfit as the more established high-end manufactures ... 

Saxonia 37 mm manual

 
 By: COUNT DE MONET : March 17th, 2014-00:58
As much as I promote the 1815 I would also strongly recommend the manual Saxonia as it is just perfect in 37 mm. However, an auto has got its benefits. I have got an 1815 version already and seriously think many, many days about a Saxonia also. Good short... 

I concur with the Count

 
 By: sham1 : March 17th, 2014-02:07
If you are able to go down to 37mm, the Saxonia manual offers excellent value for money and is timelessly elegant. The Saxonia ultra thin is a no-no for the following reasons: 1. Although it is only 5.9mm high, the 40mm case with no seconds dial makes the... 

Bravo!

 
 By: COUNT DE MONET : March 17th, 2014-05:56
For all the reasons put forward! And shall I tell you what: the Saxonia auto has NOT a 21k rotor. I checked it on the Lange website: Saxonia Annual Calendar has got one, Saxonia Perpetual has got the 21k stamp on the rotor. But not the Saxonia auto ... no... 

Just a quick one as I'm about to catch my train home...

 
 By: academe : March 17th, 2014-09:50
...Many good points here, that echo others' thoughts. However, I'm not entirely persuaded by the argument that 40mm is too large for a contemporary ultra-thin. The VC Patrimony Contemporaine, VC Traditionelle Automatic (using the calibre 1120) and it's co... 

Insiders...

 
 By: academe : March 17th, 2014-11:54
Just a follow-up regarding the new Saxonia Automatic. Given how well-liked the older version was among collectors, with a microrotor, why has AL&S opted for a full-sized rotor in their newer offerings? I've noticed that many of the newer automatic AL&... 

I will give you the technical reason

 
 By: foversta : March 17th, 2014-12:14
The objective is to enlarge the power reserve (now: 72 hours). In order to manage to do it without making the movement height too thick, Lange used a thin and very large barrel. So a central rotor was required since there was any room left for the 3/4 rot... 

So effectively they have prioritised the power reserve function over aesthetics

 
 By: academe : March 17th, 2014-14:48
of the movement? It makes me wonder how much the "normal" Lange owner (if there is such a thing!) takes the movement aesthetics this into account (relative to watch geeks like ourselves)?

I had originally discounted the Saxonia hand wound...

 
 By: academe : March 17th, 2014-14:58
...because I wanted something with a bit more wrist presence, but I understand that the Saxonia hand wound wears large because of the slim bezel. Any reflections of the aesthetics of the movement, winding, etc.? Again, lack of nearby dealership means that... 

Winding...

 
 By: foversta : March 17th, 2014-16:05
A lot of pleasure: the movement of the Saxonia Handwind is the same than the one of the first 1815. So it is a very smooth movement to wind. Best. Fx

Thank you again for the info...

 
 By: academe : March 17th, 2014-16:26
...Admittedly there is something poetic about a watch that uses one of Lange's first calibre's. The historical links from past to present, as a collector, has some level of appeal for me, too, and adds to the aesthetic considerations. My list is balloonin... 

I am hooked!

 
 By: sham1 : March 18th, 2014-00:48
Thanks to all the posts on this topic that I have decided to buy a manual Saxonia from an AD in the Far East for less than £8k as compared to the UK retail which is in excess of £13k. I believe it is the best value brand new £8k watch in the market althou... 

Congratulations on your latest acquisition!

 
 By: academe : March 18th, 2014-09:13
I'm glad that my questions have encouraged someone else to splurge! Clearly I/we were pushing on an open door. It would be great if you could post wrist pics when you finally get your new watch, as there's nothing better than seeing photos of watches "in ... 

Watches that you see rarely in windows ...

 
 By: COUNT DE MONET : March 18th, 2014-01:00
... are the best indication for a good watch. The Saxonia manual is one of them. But it all depends on your size preference. I understand that you want to have a "good sized, presence on wrist watch". Had the same feeling when I went for my 1815 mp. I hav... 

I suspect that the Saxonia 37mm will have enough wrist presence...

 
 By: academe : March 18th, 2014-17:03
...given my narrower wrists. Here's a picture of one on a gentleman with a similar wrist size to my own; it looks just right! ...  

Excellent!!

 
 By: sham1 : March 19th, 2014-00:48
I am glad that you are 'swaying' towards the 37mm manual saxonia which looks supremely elegant in white gold but is even more so in rose gold. I would love to post photos of my watches on this site but do not have the appropriate camera (I know,I know, la... 

I've been remiss in properly attributing photo credits...

 
 By: academe : March 19th, 2014-01:47
...as the pictures I've posted have been "borrowed" from others. My own photography skills are meagre at best!

40 mm is fashion. I am hoping the Chinese will bring back tradition to classic watches.

 
 By: COUNT DE MONET : March 19th, 2014-01:48
Saxonia manual: that is a lot Lange feeling for relatively little money. Show us please what you went for if you seal a deal soon. Moritz

So true!

 
 By: sham1 : March 19th, 2014-02:15
Until a decade ago, 40mm was deemed large but now too many brands seem to see this as a starting point. For this I congratulate Patek and Lange. If not for the resurgence of the Far Eastern market, I believe this trend for larger sizes (thank you so much ... 

It is not about the cheapest: the feeling is important comming from them

 
 By: COUNT DE MONET : March 19th, 2014-04:46
I am also thinking that "entry level" Pateks and Langes have enough style and aura. To me they kind of all look the same, regardless the complication. A Patek is ueber-elegant, a Lange ueber-romantic. And this you can have at any level. 40 mm sizes were v... 

While price is of course a consideration...

 
 By: academe : March 19th, 2014-04:55
...I think it's a mistake to base one's decisions or get hung-up too much about whether what one is buying is the cheapest or best value for money. Of course you want to pay for what you can afford, but within that envelope price I think should be seconda... 

You are right

 
 By: sham1 : March 19th, 2014-05:13
When I say value for money I am referring to the watches from the haute horlogerie brands (the first watch I ever owned, a Timex, may fall short of this group). So comparing a Lange Saxonia against a Patek Calatrava and a VC Patrimony, the Lange Saxonia w... 

Patek and Lange don't do second class: we pay for authenticity

 
 By: COUNT DE MONET : March 19th, 2014-06:07
Patek and Lange and VC and some more brands are true luxury. And this is what we pay for: a man made beautiful watch that was and will be manufactured with tradition. A final world to "entry level": such a term, I do not like it at all, can only be used h... 

Of course! But will probably have to wait until I see the 38.5mm 1815.

 
 By: academe : March 19th, 2014-03:11
I also agree with you on that point about watch size; I think the main thing is to have a watch that scales appropriately to your wrist size. The fad for >40mm watches has resulted in too many buying watches that are poorly scaled to their proportions....