Part 2: Lange One

Feb 01, 2015,02:20 AM
 

I wrote about the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater that the watch was expected. It is not the same with this new Lange One at least for me. I was honestly surprised to discover a new version of the "classic" Lange One with its usual case diameter: 38,5mm. Of course, we all knew that the precisely jumping date system in place with the Lange One Tourbillon PC would not only stay with this watch and that it would be deployed in other watches of the collection.

Actually, if when it comes to the pure point of view of the design, the new Lange One are very similar to the previous ones, the lay-out of the movement L121.1 is totally different from the one of the L901.0. It is a big surprise since the dial is organized the same way. But when you turn over the watch... you seem to discover a totally new piece!

Here is the new movement:





And here is the former one:





The balance wheel of the new movement is located by the crown while it is opposite on the former one. Moreover, the new one features a very large 3/4 plate while some bridges were visible previously. If you count the chatons, one was removed. If I let my heart speak, I have to confess that visually speaking I prefer the former movement.

But the new one is very cleverly designed to integrate the jumping date system. It is also thinner what allows to decrease the case height by 0,2mm (9,8 vs 10mm). It is the reason why, even if it is very subtle, the new Lange One appear to be a bit more slender than the former ones (a feeling enhanced by the smaller bezel which enlarges the dial opening).

The other feature is the use of a balance wheel with counterweights which replace the screws visible on the picture above. A proof that the in-house hairspring is also integrated in the regulating organ of the watch.

The new Lange One are available for the time being in 3 versions: PT, PG and YG. No doubt that a WG will join the party later, let's hope that Lange will choose a more daring colour for this watch!

The Platinum version:





 



The Pink Gold version:



And here is the former version:




The letters are slimmer and I find the quarter markers of the second hand subdial a bit bolder but honestly, I would be happy to compare both with the two watches together. Sadly, I had with me my Luminous which was not very helpful in this context.






The Pink Gold version also hides a surprise. It gets a polished & brushed case... for the first time with a PG watch for Lange since the rebirth of the brand! Actually, the alloy didn't change but Lange did a lot of tests to check if the brushed part of PG was not weakened and so more sensitive to corrosion. And the tests confirmed that everything was fine.

Maybe Lange was a bit too cautious during its first years... but who can blame them for this?



And the yellow gold version:












The last remark will make all the connoisseurs happy. When the power reserve stops, the mechanism integrates a kind of zero-reset and the second hand stops at 60. A little detail which counts a lot! Actually, since I prefer to wind the watch before setting the time, it is not very useful for me. But I think that a lot will appreciate this feature!

Fr.Xavier


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SIHH 2015: Lange Report

 
 By: foversta : February 1st, 2015-02:13
There are different ways to analyse the 2015 collection. From my own perspective, I would call this collection as a " musical pause ". Music, I don't need to explain why with the introduction of the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater. Pause because this collection ...  

Part 1: Zeitwerk Minute Repeater

 
 By: foversta : February 1st, 2015-02:18
The Zeitwerk Minute Repeater is not a surprise because it was expected since the Striking Time was unveiled. Pure logic... but there is a main difference between the Striking Time and the Minute Repeater if we forget the notes which are played: the first ...  

Part 2: Lange One

 
 By: foversta : February 1st, 2015-02:20
I wrote about the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater that the watch was expected. It is not the same with this new Lange One at least for me. I was honestly surprised to discover a new version of the "classic" Lange One with its usual case diameter: 38,5mm. Of cour...  

I need PG with black dial!!!

 
 By: CastorKrieg : February 1st, 2015-03:01

Buy the Datograph Up and Down! ;-)

 
 By: foversta : February 1st, 2015-10:52
More seriously, I think it would be nice to see again the combo slate dial / PG case. Thanks for your comments! Fx

The new and old Lange 1 L901.0 & L121.1

 
 By: chengsiang : January 12th, 2018-06:10
Remembered reading SJX write up about the design and secret of the Lange 1. The gear train of the older Lange 1 (L901.0), and also the other two older models of 1815 and Saxonia is actually that of the JLC cal. 822. My question is the new Lange 1 (L121.1)... 

Part 3: the 3 redesigned Saxonia

 
 By: foversta : February 1st, 2015-02:24
Actually, the LE of the Saxonia Outsize date introduced at Watches & Wonders two years ago was the kick-off, if I may say so, of the redesign of some watches of the Saxonia line. It is not the first time that watches of this line are changed. But this...  

Part 4: PG Datograph Up & Down

 
 By: foversta : February 1st, 2015-02:27
If you remember well, the nickname of the Datograph PG & Black Dial was the "Philippe Dufour" because the famous independant watchmaker is a proud owner of this watch. So here is... the Datograph "Philippe Dufour" 2015! More seriously, it was expected...  

Part 5: WG Datograph Perpetual

 
 By: foversta : February 1st, 2015-02:29
The Datograph Perpetual in WG comes back with a redesigned dial. I'm happy with the decision to see it back because I find the combo WG & grey dial absolutely gorgeous. To be consistent with the Datograph Up & Down, the Roman numerals were removed...  

the short

 
 By: watch-er : February 1st, 2015-08:10
power reserve really distracts from the watch. In practice the watch will barely run a day without winding which means we are constantly resetting the time on a weekend away if the watch is not worn or we are gone overnight during the week. I agree 60 hou... 

Frankly speaking...

 
 By: foversta : February 1st, 2015-10:50
I think that it would be possible to increase the power reserve. After all, with the Datograph it was the removal of the maltese cross which allowed to increase it. And I think it is more important with this watch than with the Datograph. Thanks for your ... 

An Owner's View

 
 By: jkingston : February 1st, 2015-13:17
I own the original wg/gray dial Dato Perpetual. It is a stunning watch. I disagree with the statement that it "barely" runs for a day. That is not my experience. What's so hard about winding one's watch when putting it on in the morning????? Besides, this... 

I also own a watch with a 36 hours power reserve

 
 By: foversta : February 1st, 2015-15:08
A 1815 chronograph to be more precise. And of course, I don't have any issue with such poser reserve. But for me, a larger power reserve would be nice for a handwind PC watch. If you leave it two days, the watch stops. That's all. And the question I have ... 

Both are gorgeous, but I think

 
 By: aris d : February 2nd, 2015-08:11
the former has a bit more character. Aris

Great report Fx!

 
 By: jrwong23 (aka watchthebin) : February 1st, 2015-03:52
When I got my 2 PG Langes in 2014, I asked them why the PG cased is all mirror polished instead of brushed polish in the middle section like in the white metals. Lange boutique told me because PG may turn red in some parts (due to the higher copper conten... 

Thanks Robin for your experience!

 
 By: foversta : February 1st, 2015-10:47
I'm happy with this decision. It brings a refined touch to the PG case. Fx

Thanks fx for the great report..

 
 By: yming : February 1st, 2015-04:21
I very much enjoyed the awesome pictures of the zeitwerk minute rep and Dato rg I hope the sound of the chime will come up top notch.. But I do think the zeitwerk striking time has a nicer design And the Lange 1, what a surprise! Lange is really living up... 

Thanks Ym.

 
 By: foversta : February 1st, 2015-10:24
Actually, it is like a reflex for me, I wind the watch then I use the crown! ;) Fx

Great comprehensive report Fx as usual.

 
 By: Mark in Paris : February 1st, 2015-06:09
I was waiting for your opinion about this year. For me it is a very nice Millesime. I think a brand like Lange needs to have watches such as the Grand Complication or the Split-QP and it is very nice to make unusual watches like the Terraluna: it really r... 

The Saxonia 35 mm is my favourite, this year.

 
 By: amanico : February 1st, 2015-06:20
Very smart and nice offer. The new Lange One is interesting, too, but why oh why didn't they house a black dial on the Pt? Or better, an enamel dial... As for the Zeitwerk MR, it is Under probation till we hear the definitve Watch. But even if it sounds g... 

yes it is a lovely watch.

 
 By: foversta : February 1st, 2015-10:21
Even if I still prefer the 36mm 1815. But it remains a balanced and elegant watch. About the black dial or let's say the darker one, I'm sure it will come later with the WG version. About the enamel dial, why not but in a LE. The concept of the Enamel dia...